This morning we head west across the island, which is, by the way, deceptively large, making for the working lighthouse at Neist Point, built by David Stevenson in 1909. It’s been working ever since, and although now unmanned still has the aerial mechanism used to winch out supplies. It’s a gorgeous trek by foot to the lighthouse and back—estimate 1.5 hours total.
While out and about, we visit Roger and Andrea at Skye Weavers, where a small team of experts turn local wool into gloriously soft and covetable items using a bicycle-powered loom. Checked scarves, anyone? Or throws, wraps, tweed lengths? Our advice - keep space in your suitcases. And never fear, there will be sheep and further photo stops as we go.
At noon, full of fresh air and laden with woolen delights, we reach the award-winning restaurant Three Chimneys, in the crofting center of Colbost, right on the edge of the sea loch Dunvegan with view of the treacherous stretch of ocean known as the Minch.
We’ve left plenty of time here: we need it to fully appreciate what chef Scott Davies calls his ‘fiercely seasonal cooking’, using Skye’s ‘authentic natural larder from land and sea.’ We think that means oysters that slip down in a breath of brine, roasted wild pigeon and tender Soay lamb (we’ll see the attractive, self-sufficient, soft brown Soays munching at the grass, as they have done since prehistory). Relax and enjoy.
Mid-afternoon we’ll make a little jaunt to Dunvegan Castle, the MacLeods’ family seat, to walk off our huge lunch and take a short boat trip to see hundreds of lounging seals (worth it, we promise). Enjoy a leisurely late afternoon back at our hotel with time for settling in for dinner together.
CUILLIN HILLS HOTEL (B, L ,D)