Today we journey inland, leaving the Adriatic behind as we cross the wheat-colored heart of Puglia. Our destination is Matera, but first we pause in Altamura, a town built on limestone and bread. Within its medieval walls, traditions rise like dough—slow, deliberate, and essential. Stroll through the old center, where timeworn bakeries still fire loaves in ancient ovens. At Antico Forno di Santa Chiara, in continuous operation since 1423, we taste warm focaccia pulled from a wood-burning hearth—the flavors are as elemental as the land itself. Indulge in lunch at the bakery washed down by the owner’s homemade primitivo. 

In the afternoon, arrive in Matera, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities and a place unlike any other. Its honey-colored cliffs are carved with cave dwellings, chapels, and cisterns—the Sassi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, appear suspended in both time and stone. Nestle into 5-star Vetera, a newly opened Relais & Châteaux property carved seamlessly into the hillside, where refined design meets Matera’s raw, elemental beauty.

As twilight paints the tufa in shades of gold and rose, we head out for an evening walk to orient ourselves in this dreamlike cityscape. Dinner at leisure.

We wake in a city carved from the bones of the earth. After breakfast, we set out on a guided urban hike, tracing Matera’s ancient staircases and winding lanes. This is no ordinary city tour—it’s a journey through rooftop labyrinths, sunlit terraces, hidden courtyards, and rainwater cisterns that once sustained entire communities. Our guide brings the Sassi to life with stories of resilience, devotion, and quiet brilliance etched into stone.

In the afternoon, we cross into the wild, sacred stillness of the Parco delle Chiese Rupestri, a dramatic landscape of cliffs and silence. Here, over 150 rock-hewn churches lie tucked into the limestone—some barely visible, others adorned with fading frescoes that once glowed by candlelight. We pause in one or two of these chapels, feeling the echo of centuries beneath our feet.

The late afternoon is yours to enjoy at leisure. Wander, sketch, sip espresso, or simply sit and take in the surreal beauty of Matera bathed in golden light.

Dinner is on your own tonight—perhaps a rooftop aperitivo with sweeping views, or a candlelit cave table shared with new friends and stories from the road.